We set out to make the strongest, most durable, most reliable pedicab wheels possible while using bicycle type components.
We started with a custom machined hub made from 6061 aluminum. As compared to other pedicab hubs which are 3.7″ wide and 2.5″ in diameter, we opted to go a little bit bigger to better support larger diameters 29″ wheels and wider rims with greater center-line spoke hole offset on the rim. At 2.75″ diameter and 4.0″ wide, our hub offers greater bracing angle and thus a stronger wheel with out being too wide to fit on a standard pedicab axle. The inner bore is 1″ or 25.4mm to fit the most common American made pedicabs. It has both 1/8″ and 1/4″ keyways.
Our custom made rim is approximately 64mm wide and 20mm tall, 48 hole, eyeletted, with a schrader valve opening. It weighs in at approximately 1200 grams making it significantly heavier, stiffer, and stronger than standard bicycle rims used on pedicabs. The extra width and minimal height gives the rim strength it needs to handle the most abusive situations pedicabs face , such as side-loading, going around fast turns with a heavily loaded vehicle.
While no rim is magical, we believe that this is the best pedicab wheel available. All wheels, including these requires regular maintenance to keep the spokes very tight to the point of elongation, the rim true and round. Regular maintenance of the spokes will keep you and your wheels running strong for years to come.
For greatest long term durability and reliability we have built these wheels with stainless 14/15 gauge butted spokes and brass nipples. While to some it may seem counter-intuitive to use slightly thinner rather than thicker spokes found in other pedicab wheels that claim to be heavy duty. We have found through extensive testing that thinner butted spokes work better that 12 or 10 gauge spokes.
One might ask “How can a wheel built with thinner spokes be stronger than one built with thicker spokes ?” The answer is simple. For a wheel to stay strong and true it must be built tight enough to stretch the spokes. Bicycle rims are designed to be strong enough to stretch bicycle spokes to proper tension and elongation. Bicycle rims are not strong enough to stretch moped or motorcycle spokes to proper elongation. When using 10 or 12 gauge spokes on a bicycle rim the wheel builder will try to get the spoke up to proper tension, but over time the rims will tend to crack at the spoke hole causing the spokes to loose tension leading to a wheel failure.
By going to a thinner stretchier spoke we have been able to build a more resilient wheel that is better able to return back to its previous shape after it has suffered overloading. The added stretch in the spoke gives the wheel more range of deformation before the spokes go slack, loose tension over a wide area, and the rim collapses.
Rim fits and 26″ x 2.5″ such as Maxxis Hookworms, but also fit a range of wider tires.
For easiest tire installation on a wide rim such as these, fit the first bead and press the tire bead into its position on the rim. Slip the slightly inflated tube in to valve hole and then fit around in to the tire and rim. Starting at the valve hole fit the second tire bead. If you have having difficulty fitting the last part of the second bead, deflate the tube all the way, and work your way around the wheel squeezing the tire into the middle of the rim where the rim diameter is the smallest. Then use the heel of you hands to work the remaining part of the tire bead on to the rim. Inflate to no more that the tire’s maximum pressure rating. Fitting the tire bead in to the middle of the rim where the rim diameter is slightly smaller is critical to making tire fitment with out tools relatively easy.
The built 26″ Wheel weighs in at approximately 3.8 pounds with/out tire or tube.